Paracyprichromis Nigripinnis Part 2

Q&A about diseases and their cure

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Paracyprichromis Nigripinnis Part 2

Post by Clayn » Tue Jan 06, 2004 10:37 am

Let me take you through my process of putting together the group of Paracyprichromis Nigripinnis. I first purchased three fish and quarantined them for about a month with no medication of any kind. I moved them into a 55 gallon tank and realized that I needed more to form a group. I purchased ten more from another source and quarantined them for approximately two weeks. The fish were then added to the main tank. At this point let me go over how the tank was set up. I had three sides of the tank covered with a black background. I stacked quite a bit of marble in the tank to provide large openings for the males to claim as territories. I had a crushed coral substrate. I also only had one 24" light on the tank because these fish prefer dim lighting. I was also using baking soda and epsom salt to raise the PH and harden the water. At this point I was feeding frozen brine shrimp because I didn't know any better and they really liked it. The fact that frozen brine shrimp is such a popular food and widely recomended is astonishing. At this point they began breeding. All the females in the tank were holding eggs or fry. After the females released the fry I chose to leave them in the main tank. This is when the problem began. I would treat them as stated earlier and most of them would recover. The fish that I lost at this point were all females. I went through three rounds of them getting the "Waste Away" and some of them recovering. This was over a period of about one year. I got them well again and decided to purchase a trio from Mike Schaffran at Cichlid Planet. I know Mike and know he feeds all his fish well. I received the new fish and Quarantined them with some other new arrivals. This trio developed the same problems before they left the quarantine tank. I know this is a problem on my end and that Mike is in no way to blame. I moved all of the Paracyprichromis into the 55 gallon and began to treat again. I think by this point the fishes immune systems were so weak that they just couldn't recover. The fish that were in quarantine with the Paracyprichromis never showed any signs of this problem. These fish included Compressiceps and Jumbo Cyprichromis. I discontinued the feeding of frozen brine shrimp and started feeding Hikaris Mysis instead. I stopped using baking soda and epsom salt and started using a Tanganyikan cichlid salt. Feeding the frozen brine shrimp was not the problem because the fish I got from Mike had never eaten any. I am thinking it might be a water quality issue. I have adequate filtration but my water source comes from an area where they do a lots of mining for lime. I don't drink my water without filtering it. I suspect that my local water supply has a healthy supply of phosphates. They don't list everything on the annual water report. This has me concerned because I am planning on getting a group of Xenotilapia Spilopterus. As you know they are also very delicate and sensitive to water quality. I thought about buying two thirty gallon plastic storage bins to acclimate my water in prior to doing my weekly water changes. The water could sit for several days and I could also run a filter with media that would absorb Nitrates, Phosphates and other harmful heavy metals. How long do you acclimate your new fish before administering the Clout treatment. I agree treating them soon after you get them is the best course to head off potential problems. I was thinking of in the future treating treating each tank with Droncit for flukes and other similar pests and feeding food laced with Metronidazole and Pipzine to clear out any internal parasites. Clout is certainly cheaper than my proposed method and it is effective. I have never treated healthy fish with Clout but I imagine they would fare much better than fish that were already weakened by diasease. I once had a fish leap from the water after I administered Clout. Clout is no worse than Fluke Tabs. They are both pretty harsh. The 75 gallon tank that the Xenos. are going in has play sand for the substrate and three groups of rocks accrss the back. I will have to get a background for three sides of the tank before I get the fish. For filtration I have an Emperor 400, Penguin 330 and a Fluval 204 cannister. I have Matrix in the two media holders on the Emperor 400 and the Penguin 330. The media baskets in the Fluval are also packed with Matrix. I also have cell pore cartridges on the Emperor 400. I also have one air stone to insure good O2/C02 exchange at the surface. I don't typically use carbon in any of my filters but I could start. I really want to try the Xenos. but after my experience with the Paracyprichromis I am a bit leary. I am afaid that I have set a new record for the boards longest post.
Lake Tanganyika......So many fish......So little time

Pam Chin
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Post by Pam Chin » Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:24 pm

Hi Clay,

The problems with water conditions is that everyones water is different. There is not a way for me to tell you how much buffer you need, or whether adding a carbon filter will be the answer to all your problems. I can tell that you are a serious hobbyist and that you are also successful by the cichlids that you are keeping. So you know too, that many times it is only by experimenting that you can work out these challenges to your fish keeping. I wish I could be more helpful in this type of situation, but I'm just not.

You know your fish and their sources, so while I can guess and point out probable causes my goal is to get you thinking, and hopefully through the process of elimination, you can come up with a solution.

I can tell that I am much more paranoid about wild fish than you. I qarantine wild fish for at least 4 - 6 weeks, and treat them with Clout with in 24 hours of receiving them, no matter what or where they have been! I think that stress affects their immune system, and so they are not able to fight off disease and parasites like they normally would. I know first hand what a wild fish from Lake Tanganyika has to go through just to get to our tanks! They are crowded into concrete vats, while they wait for someone to order them. The nearest airport is over 16 hours away, and they ride on the back of a flat bed truck. It is a testament of how hearty these fish really are. In my mind it is almost impossible to explain why wild fish actually even breed in our aquariums!

I hope you figure out your water, and you are successful with the Xeno's!
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